Installing a DCC decoder in a Hornby Class 43 HST that is DCC Ready

Click on each image for a more detailed view

Hornby HST

This installation really is the easiest I have come across as the engine is DCC ready and there is plenty of space. If you want to make changes to the lighting then installation will become more challenging, but this guide just covers a straightforward decoder installation.

You will need a small flat head screwdriver to undo the screw securing the body to the chassis.

Before installing chip into any loco it is advisable to check the current being drawn by the loco.

There are DCC sockets in both power and trailer cars but fitting the decoder uses the same technique for both types of car.

The underside of the HST


The body is secured to the chassis with 4 screws, 2 at the rear of each bogie. Undo the screws and shake them loose and away from the chassis.

The body can then be lifted gently away from the chassis. Lift the rear part of the body first then slide gently backwards.


Location of NMRA socket in HST

Location of decoder in dummy car

The loco is DCC ready, having a socket installed in the middle of the loco. Gently lever the dummy plug out of the socket.

There is plenty of space inside the loco for any size of OO/HO decoder. This installation used a TCS DP2X-UK decoder in the power car and an old TCS T1 decoder with no motor control in the dummy car. It would also be possible to use a lighting only decoder, such as the TCS FL2, in the dummy car.


Locating decoder in power car

Firmly push the plug attached to the decoder into the socket, being careful not to bend the pins. Make sure the decoder is correctly orientated.

It is suggested that you do any programming of the decoders, before replacing the bodies. Remember that the decoder in the dummy car should be programmed to work in the reverse direction to the motor car. For additional guidance on how this can be done see the notes on installing decoders into a Bachmann Class 108 DMU here.

Replace each body carefully sliding the front of the chassis into the body first, then pushing the rear of the body on to the chassis. It isn't a tight fit, though locating the correct position for the chassis in the front of the body can take a few moments in order to get the lighting board correctly seated.


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